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Buffing FAQ's
Check below to get your buffing questions asked.
General FAQ's
What exactly is buffing and why should I try it?
Automotive buffing is a process where a very minute amount of paint
is removed from the surface of a vehicle's painted finish. The goal
is to produce a better shine. The process typically uses special
pads on a circular-spinning machine buffer. Special compound applied
to the paint surface creates friction with the pad and removes a
very thin layer from the paint surface.
On older vehicles, buffing removes the thin layer of oxidation
that makes paint look chalky and dull. Buffing can literally restore
the shine to like-new in most cases. Buffing can be used on new
paint to remove many paint blemishes which occurred during the paint
proccess (dust, runs, orange peel, dry spray, etc). The pocess in
this case involves sanding the paint surface smooth, then buffing
the sanded surface to a high shine again.
What are the benefits of buffing?
On older vehicles it is a very inexpensive and easy way to restore
a vehicle's shine to like-new quickly and easily. Light surface
scratches, scuffs and oxidation are easily removed. On newly painted
vehicles buffing can be used to enhance the paint job. Buffing can
remove unsightly paint blemishes such as dust, runs and orange peel.
The result is a better looking paint job. This requres the paint
to be sanded first.
Who should use buffing?
Existing Vehicle: One who wishes to remove light scratches, scuffs,
etc. or restore the shine to a high luster.
New Paint Job: One who wishes to remove unsightly runs, dust, or
orange peel. One who wishes to produce an extremely flat paint surface.
One wishing to produce a show-quality paint job.
I was thinking about painting my vehicle, do you think I can get
the paint to shine just by buffing?
Typically, yes. If your existing paint looks dull and bland but
the paint's overall condition is in good shape, you may be very
suprised how buffing can make your paint look. I have seen many
bland-looking vehicles look show-room new after a goof buffing.
Nearly every car dealership uses buffing to make their used vehicle's
paint shine better. Dark colors (black, blues, reds, etc) shine
particularly well after buffing.
I just painted a vehicle. I got dust and runs in it, will buffing
fix these
Yes and no. Buffing alone will not remove the runs. The runs first
must be sanded down, smooth with the paint surface usingh special
ultra-fine sandpaper. Then you can buff the sanded paint surface
to a high luster agai.
My paint job turned out nice. Should I sand and buff it?
It depends on what you are trying to achieve and how picky you are.
If your paint job turned out nice with few paint blemishes and you
are satisfied with it, then leave it. If, for some reason, you are
not satisfied with the result, and/or would like to remove any paint
blemishes that may have occurred durring the paint process, then
buffing is something you may want to consider.
How would I remove paint runs?
It's a two-step process. First, the paint runs must be sanded smooth
[to the ajacent paint surface]. Ultra-fine sandpaper wrapped around
a paint stick or other hard object is used for this process. Water
is used to wash away the paint dust and keep the sandpaper from
clogging. Once the runs have been removed, the paint must be buffed
to restore it's shine.
What are the general buffing steps?
Buffing is typically done in two stages. Apply the appropriate compound
to the paint surface. Run the buffer accross the paint surface using
a course wool pad. The second step uses pretty much the same technique
only with a finer pad and finer compound to match the pad. Finter
pads are made of either fine wool or foam. Existing painted surfaces
in good condition may only require buffing with fine pads and may
skip the first step.
How difficult is buffing?
It's generally easy. Those who are good with tools can typically
learn it right away. Buffing spots or panels is a fairly quick process
whereas buffing an entire vehicle takes longer.
How much work is it going to be?
Buffing existing paint to a better shine is a piece of cake that
can be acomplished in an hour or so. If the paint was dull beforehand,
you will be impressed with the results and the effort will definitely
be worth it. Removing blemishes in a new paint job requires more
work because the paint surface must first be sanded (to remove/reduce
the blemishes), then buffed; first with a course pad, then a finer
pad. The increased number of steps increases the amount of work
and time it takes. Often, only a hood, trunk lid and a few other
areas require sanding and buffing to remove the most obvious paint
blemishes. These can be finished in a couple hours. Wetsanding and
buffing an entire vehicle can be a significant amount of work that
may take the better part of a day, or longer. But the result can
yield a stunning show-quality paint job.
I'm a beginner painter, should I try it?
Definitely. There is nothing magical or mystical about buffing paint.
A few pointer will get you going and you should be able to quickly
master the technique. It's a great way to fix paint blemishes and
make your work look as good as you want it to.
If I buff out my vehicle's paint, what will it look like afterwards?
Existing finishes in otherwise good condition will look factory
fresh in most cases. Newly painted surfaces which require wetsanding
(sanding using water to wash away dust) will also shine well.
Will the newly buffed paint be as shiny as unbuffed new paint?
Technically no. However, the differences are not great and only
visible when compared to an ajacent unbuffed panel on dark color.
Most painters and restorers feel the trade-off of removing paint
blemishes yields a much better overall quality of work.
Can I screw up my vehicle's paint while buffing?
Sure, it's possible. Let me give a few ways this could happen:
1) If sand were to get onto the paint surface while sanding the
finish or durring the buffing process, it could produce permenant
scratches.
2) If you were to accidentally buff through the paint you would
see primer or whatever lies beneath the paint. If this happened
at the edge of a panel you could daub some paint on the area that
was buffed through, although you would see the paint daub. If you
were to buff through an area not on a paint edge, that area, or
most likely the entire panel, would need to be repainted.
How hard is it to buff through the paint?
It's easy if one is careless or if the paint is already thin. In
general, however, under most common circumstances it's not that
easy or common. Buffing removes only a minute amount of paint. But
the longer or number of times one buffs an area, the more paint
it removes, of course. Experienced buffers I know, almost never
buff through paint unless they take mental leave of absence (it
happens from time to time). The greatest danger comes at panel edges
and sharp edges along bodylines. Follow my suggestions in my buffing
guide and it should greatly minimize the risk. Personally, I have
only buffed through paint surfaces a couple times ever. In each
instance I made a careless move or heald the buffer in one area
too long. As a practice, I never buff directly on panel edges and
bodylines unless I absolutely have to. It greatly minimizes the
risks.
How do I know if there is enough coats of paint on my vehicle to
buff?
Existing Paint - Unless you just painted your vehicle, you probably
can't know for sure how many coats of paint it has. If it is a factory
paint job, the paint should withstand several buffings just fine.
Chances are the vehicle has never been buffed. If the paint is fairly
new and only requires light buffing with a foam pad, it hardly removes
any paint. If it is an older vehicle and the paint appears thin
in places, particularly on edges and body lines, it's likely been
buffed a few times and the paint is thin. Take care along these
areas and beware that there is a chance you may buff through some
area.
New Paint - If you recently painted your vehicle, you probably applied
2- 3 coats of clear (or paint) to it. If you plan to wetsand out
the blemishes and buff it and applied two thick coats of paint you
should be ok, but use caution. If you applied 3 coats of clear or
paint you will be in good shape. Anything more than 4 coats is overkill.
Do some paints buff out better than others?
Yes. With existing paint, darker colors which tend to oxidize faster
and show blemishes due to their dark nature, will show a more dramatic
improvement after buffing.
Single-stage paint- Buffing dark, single-stage paints (non-clearcoat)
may actually hasten the oxidation rate. Buffing will expose new
paint and can hasten the rate of oixdation, particularly an issue
with reds and oranges, less with other colors. Of course, if the
paint is already dull, you don't have anything to lose and might
as well buff it out. Regular waxing will help protect the paint
and reduce oxidation.
If you have just painted a vehicle with single-stage paint, think
twice about wetsanding and buffing it out. You wil remove the thin
layer of clear that rises to the surface after application and expose
the paint. The result will be dramatically increased the rate of
oxidation, especially with paints containing red pigments. I did
this very thing once with a classic car I panted (and owned). I
wanted to remove dust that settled on the upper paint surfaces.
The car was painted red. Within a month of having been painted,
the paint on the buffed surfaces had dulled significantly. From
then on I would have to buff the upper surfaces before each car
show and several times a year (with a foam pad) to remove the oxidation.
The panels I left alone remained shiny for years. This is why I
ALWAYS recommend spraying clearcoat finishes on paint jobs that
matter to you. The extra cost spent upfront gives you the ability
to repair blemishes afterwards. It's a worthwhile tradeoff in my
book.
Metallic paint - It's not recommended to wetsand and buff single-stage
metallic paint. You will see the sandpaper strokes even after buffing
and the paint will look horrible. If the paint already looks dull
and chalky, go ahead and buff it out (don't wetsand) and see how
it looks. Generally you can buff out single-stage metallic paints
and they wil look much better afterwards. With clearcoated metallics,
you should have little problem buffing and it shoud come out looking
sweet. Bear in mind that clearcoat finishes on some early and mid
90's vehicles had a durability problem They tended to disintegrate
after sevaral years. You cannot buff out weak or damaged clearcoat
finish and expect it to look good.
Old Lacquer finishes- Old lacquer finished on vehicles produced
in the 80's often cracked. There are a variety of names for this
condition, cracking, checking, crow's feet, etc. If you were to
closely inspect the finish of these vehicles with this condition
with a magnafying glass (or bare eye) you would see a zillion micro-cracks
in the paint. Buffing such paint will fill in the scratches with
buffing compound and the result will be a white haze you won't be
able to remove. Don't buff paint exhibiting this condition.
How do I know if my vehicle's paint is single-stage or has a clearcoat?
It can be difficult to tell. One test is to take a coin or some
object and lightly scratch the paint surface in an inconspicious
area. Clearcoated finishes will yield a whiteish scratch, even if
the paint is silver, black, blue, red or whatever. Of course this
test works better the further the vehicle is from white.
How long should I wait after painting before I can wetsand and
buff out my paint?
You can begin wetsanding the paint after several hours. Some paints
harden faster than others. As long as the paint is hard enough to
sand, you can begin. I generally let my paint jobs sit overnight
before wetsanding and buffing. You can also wait several days, months
or even years. The wetsanding and buffing processes become slightly
more difficult when the paint gets harder, but not significantly.
If you painted an entire vehicle, it will be easier if you wetsand
and buff it before you put the trim back on.
What problems might I run into durring buffing?
Paint hazzards - As far as the paint goes, there aren't many problems
other than potentially buffing through a few edges in the paint
or the paint itself. Do make absolutely sure the vehicle is completely
clean and void of any sand or debris. Also make sure you and your
clothes are also void of sand and debris. A few pieces of sand in
the paint could produce a permaenant scratch. This happens very
rarely though. Another danger to the vehicle can come from accidentally
buffing into plastic trim pieces. The force of the buffing wheel
could damage or break trim under the right conditions.
Safety hazzards - Always remember that you are buffing with a power
tool that must be given the respect it deserves. As with running
any power tool, read the manual and understand and it's limits and
potential dangers that could result by using it. Never forget for
a moment that given the right conditions, the buffer could kick
back and jump out of your hands. Always wear safety glases and hearing
protection. Also, buffing compounds often contain silicates that
become airborne in the buffing process. Inhaled they represent real
health concerns. Read the safety data sheets and follow safety directions.
Personally, I almost always wear glases, hearing protection, a quality
dust filter or mask and a buffing apron when buffing.
I've seen swirl marks in other people's paint jobs after buffing.
Will I get those and how can I avoid them?
They are generally the result of unfinished buffing and mismatching
the right buffing compounds to the proper step and pad you should
be using. They are also more pronounced on darker colors. If you
stop buffing using a wool pad and course compound, you are likely
to plenty of swirl marks. Finish with a foam pad at low speed using
fine compound. On dark colors you may need to use a swirl mark remover.
If you still see them, a coat of wax should take care of the problem.
Should I apply wax after I have finished buffing newly applied
paint?
NO. After buffing, wait the recommended period before applying wax.
This will allow thinners to completely evaporate and the paint to
properly harden. Generally, this takes a matter of 3 months or more.
With clearcoat finishes there is no need to apply a wax other than
it may make you feel better inside. However, I must admit, you can't
beat the smooth feel of newly applied wax.
I haven't painted my vehicle yet. I want my paint to turn out really
nice. Are there any PRO tricks I should know about before I paint
it that might help it look better after buffing?
Great question! Yes there are. First, make sure you apply enough
paint. If you plan to sand blemishes out of the finish, make sure
you apply no less than 3 coats. You don't need to necessarily apply
more than 3 coats, but 3 will give you plenty of room to buff out
boogers. Secondly, after painting, inspect your paint surface. If
you see any low areas in your clear such as bug tracks, fisheyes
in the clearcoat, around large dust particles, take a toothpick
and carefully daub a small drop to fill in the low area/s. When
you wetsand you won't need to wetsand those areas as deeply to produce
a flat finish. Don't wait until the clear has dried, do it when
the clear is still somewhat tacky. Take care you don't brush the
paint with your clothes while you are doing this. Also, if you have
runs in your paint and you know you will have to buff them out,
wait until the runs are hand-slick and carefully spray another coat
or two of clear over them. That will build up the areas AROUND the
runs which will allow you to more easily wetsand them out and prevent
the danger of sanding through the clear or paint.
Buffers and Supplies
What products do I need to buff out my vehicle?
At the minimum you need a machine buffer, two pads (a course wool
pad and a finer pad, preferably made of foam), compound for the
course pad and compound for the fine pad. If you plan to sand your
vehicle before buffing, you will need some ultra-fine sandpaper.begin
with something like 1200 grit paper and follow up with 1500-2000
grit.
How much do buffing products cost?
Buffer - $50 - $500
Compound - $10 - $20 per bottle (you need at least two types generally)
Sandpaper - About $1 per sheet.
How much does a good buffer cost?
A good quality Makita or DeWalt buffer generally sells for between
$150 - $350
Do I need to buy an expensive buffer?
Good results can be achieved with an inexpensive buffer. I buffed
dozens of vehicles out with a cheap buffer when I was starting out.
How important is it to have a multi-speed buffer?
Very important. It's important to be able to slow the pad down when
approaching sharp edges and body curves. It helps reduce burn-through.
Nearly all quality buffers are variable speed. But a two-speed buffer
will work fine also.
Can you list some cheap buffers and where I can get them?
Harbor Freight has a great inexpensive variable-speed buffer which
regularly sells for $49.99. One should be able to get great results
with it for many years. Also, WEN, available from JC Whitney for
around $60 is also a decent inexpensive buffer. It has 2 speeds
and does not have a 5/8" arbor unlike the Harbor Freight buffer.
The buffer I am looking at does not have a 5/8" arbor. Should
I buy it?
If it has a 7" backing pad you should be ok. One advantage
of the 5/8" arbor is that it is a standard size and replacement
pads will fit it. Also, some foam pads have a backing adhered onto
the foam. But, I personally have buffed for many years with a WEN
buffer that did not have a 5/8" backing pad and never ran into
any problems.
Can I use my $20 waxer/polisher or adapt my angle grinder as a
buffer?
No, Highly unlikely that it would have enough power. Machine polishers
are gear driven. A buffing pad along with compound really creates
a good amount of resistance compared to a waxing pad. Plus, the
random orbit pattern is not conducive to buffing.
What about air polishers?
Air polishers work fine. The main drawback of air polishers is the
amount of air they consume, the fact that you're teathered to your
compressed air system and the ability to control speed as accurately.
On the positive side, they are very low maintenance and last forever.
I've used air polishers and in general they work great. Still, electric
polishers are by far the most common among bodymen.
My buffer's backing pad is bent, is that a big deal?
Yes. Quality of buffing will be terrible with a bent pad. The pad
will "skip" on the paint surface. Try bending it straight,
or buy a new backing pad.
How should I store my new buffer?
Store the buffer so the pad is facing upright. Or remove the backing
pad when you are not using the buffer. Never allow a buffer to rest
on it's rubber backing pad. This is a sure way to bend it's. Once
bent you will not get good results.
When I try to buff, my buffer vibrates up and down, is this ok?
Sounds like your rubber backing pad is warped. As you buff, the
pad is "skipping" accross the paint surface. This will
give you crappy buffing results and wear your pad out prematurely.
Try straightening it out or replace the backing pad.
What kind of buffing pads do I need?
You need a course wool pad and a fine pad either wool or foam. Most
bodymen begin with a course pad, then finish off with a foam pad.
Can I use the pad that came with my buffer?
The pads that come with buffers are generally very lame. Get a quality
pad to ensure quality work.
Who makes good buffing pads?
3M and Mequire's are popular among bodyshops.
Where can I buy buffing supplies?
Your local automotive paint supply store will have what you need.
Online sources include Autobodytoolmart.com. Autobodystore, EastWood.com
Why would I use a foam pad?
A foam pad removes the swirl marks produced by a wool pad. It produces
a greater shine with fewer swirl marks. The pad also runs cooler
than wool pads reducing your chances of buffing through your paint.
Can I use a fine natural fiber pad instead of a foam pad?
Yes. I know a few bodymen who still prefer the fine natural fiber
pads.
Do all buffing pads fit on all buffers?
What do I need to know about buffing compounds?
There are vairous formulations of compound recommended for different
types of paint (lacquer, enamel, urethane) and fine and course compound
and compound for natural fiber pads and different compound for foam
pads. Then there are hand rubbing compounds. It can be a little
confusing when shopping for compounds for the first time. Your attendant
at the local automotive paint supply store should be able to show
you what you need. If you are buffing out existing factory paint,
you won't need as course of a compound as buffing out wetsanded
paint. However, if you get a medium compound and a foam pad compound
for course wool and foam pads you will be set for the majority of
your buffing needs. You may want to add a swirl mark remover or
hand rubbing compound to your arsenal as well.
Who makes good buffing compounds?
3M, Mequire's BASF, DuPont are common names. There are also a number
of "house" names like Napa, etc.
Which compound should I use with wool and foam pads
As an example, use 3M and Perfect-it II with a foam pad.
I've heard I can "burn through" the paint when buffing,
is it true?
Definitely true. As a beginner buffer, it is something you need
to be overly paranoid about. If you take care when buffing on panel
edges and sharp body lines, you will reduce the chances of buffing
through significantly.
If I accidentally burned through the paint, how would I fix it?
If it's a small region you can try touching up the area, or maybe
blend in some paint. On larger areas you will have a greater challenge
to hide the buff-through area. If you want to completely overcome
the blemish you will have to repaint the whole panel. That's why
it is critical you try hard to not buff through.
Really, what are the chances I will "burn through" the
paint?
If you take care when you are buffing and follow some simple rules
like I outlined in my buffing tutorial, you reduce your chances
of buffing through significantly. The greatest problems occur at
panel edges and along bodylines. Also, on used vehicles, you can't
know how many times (if ever) the vehicle has already been buffed.
But, in general, it's not that easy to do. As a beginner to buffing,
the chances of accidentally making a mistake buffing are fairly
high. Practice on a vehicle you are less concerned about first until
you get the hang of it. Then move on to your prized show-car. Once
you master the technique and maybe buff through once or twice you
will learn how to avoid mistakes and will probably never buff through
again.
Wetsanding
What's the deal with wetsanding a vehicle's paint?
What other paint blemishes will wetsanding remove?
What paint blemishes won't buffing remove?
How do I know if I need to sand my paint first?
Will I really be able to buff my paint shiny after it has been
sanded with sandpaper?
What type of sandpaper should I use?
I've never seen ultra-fine sandpaper, where can I get it?
How much does ultra-fine sandpaper cost?
Ultra-fine sandpaper is expensive, can I use cheaper 400 grit?
Do I have to wetsand? Can I sand dry?
What is a Dense Foam Sanding block?
Where can I buy a foam sanding block?
How do I remove runs in my paint?
What are the general steps to wetsanding?
What do I need to be careful about while wetsanding?
I dropped my sponge on the shop floor, should I reuse it?
How do I remove Orange Peed?
Can I get a surface that is as smooth as glass?
I've heard guys say that Urethane clearcoat won't buff as smooth
as lacquer paint, is this true?
How hard is it to accidentally sand through the paint?
If I do sand through the paint, what do I do?
How can I tell when I've sanded deep enough?
Do I need to wetsand the same direction all the time?
What grit sandpaper should I finish with?
Wetsanding sounds like a lot of work?
How much work is it to wetsand my whole vehicle?
Wetsanding is a paint, is there an easier way?
Do I have to wetsand? Can I sand dry?
If I want my paint to look as smooth as glass, what do I do?
Buffing
Where do I start?
Is there a special way to hold the buffer?
Is there a "Best" speed I should buff at?
What are the general steps?
How much compound do I begin with?
The compound flies all over when I buff, is that normal?
What exactly is "burning" through the paint? What causes
it?
How can I avoid burning through the paint?
I think I burned through the paint in one spot, what can I do?
Are there any simple rules I should remember?
How do I know when I have buffed enough?
When should I switch to a finer pad?
I have one run on the fender, can I just buff it, or do I have
to buff the entire fender?
Will a foam pad really produce a good shine?
What should I know about using a foam pad?
My uncle/dad/grandpa says he's never used a foam pad before and
I should stick with a wool pad. Is he right?
I am using my waxer/polisher and it's not working. Why?
After the first buffing, it seems to shine pretty well, can I stop
there?
How do I know when I have buffed enough and should switch to the
foam pad?
How do I buff using a foam pad?
You're right, it does seem to shine better after the foam pad.
Should I stop after this step?
When I buff using the foam pad, sometimes I get caked-on marks
I can't get off?
How often can I buff my paint?
After buffing, I still see some blemishes in one area. Can I go
back and wetsand and buff those areas again?
I wetsanded and buffed my paint runs yet they are still faintly
visible. Why is that and shat do I do about them?
I still can't seem to get my paint runs so they aren't visible,
any recommendations?
I have some swirl marks, how do I remove them?
Where can I get more information on painting and buffing?
Are there any tutorials on the internet?
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